![]() Make sure it is completely submerged at all times. Use a piece of tube to direct the brake fluid back into the reservoir. Insert a piece of clear tubing into the outlet port on the reservoir and put the other end of the tube down into the master cylinder. Instead of letting the brake fluid squirt out of the banjo bolt and down onto a rag, you can direct it back up into the reservoir. You’re probably starting to realize there is almost no limit to how many ways you can bleed the brakes on an ATV. Yet another alternative method – directing fluid back into the reservoir Related: 12 reasons why your ATV brakes won’t build or hold pressure. This method may be a bit messier, so make sure you use plenty of rags to keep your ATV protected. You should now be able to build proper pressure. Continue until you get a sputter-free stream of brake fluid.ġ0. Re-apply pressure and open the banjo bolt again.ĩ. Tighten the bolt when the brake lever is about 80% engaged.Ĩ. But instead of opening the bleed valve by the caliper, you open the banjo bolt until the brake fluid starts sputtering out. Then pump the brake lever as you do when manually bleed the brakes.Ħ. Reverse bleeding is not recommended at this point as this will only press the small amount of air that’s left back into the master cylinder.Īlternative method – using the banjo bolt as a bleed valveĪ variation of the above methods is when you, instead of controlling the fluid stream with your finger, use the banjo bolt as a bleed valve.ĥ. Either use the manual pump and release method or use a vacuum bleeder. Bleed the brakes as normal to remove the last bit of air.Top off the reservoir and reinstall the reservoir cover.Tighten according to factory spec it should be snug.Remove your finger and insert the banjo bolt as fast as you can. Remove the finger and thread the bolt all the way.Grab the banjo bolt with your free hand, and get ready to thread it in the hole as effectively as you can.Keep the finger pressed firmly against the opening when you are done. It’s also quite visible when the bubbles are no longer coming-the stream of fluid changes from sputtering to a solid stream. You should be able to feel when this happens with your finger. Repeat until there is no more air coming out with the brake fluid.Continue this process for a few pumps.You must do your best not to let any air back into the hole at this stage. When at about 80% of total travel and all the time when releasing the lever to do another pump, you should keep your finger firmly covering the hole.Keep pressing the lever until you reach about 80% of its total travel. Slightly release the pressure with your finger covering the hole to allow fluid to escape. Use your finger to cover the exposed outlet port. Use your finger as a “valve” to let brake fluid out, but prevent air from getting back in when you pump the brakes.Use your finger to cover the hole where the banjo bolt was sitting.Most of the brake fluid will stay inside the reservoir even after removing the banjo bolt. Here you can see the banjo bolt still connected to the brake fluid reservoir. Pull back the rubber cap covering the banjo bolt.Place plenty of rags to soak up the brake fluid being bled.Pour new brake fluid into the reservoir so that it’s at the maximum level mark.Open the brake fluid reservoir lid and diaphragm.Brake fluid is corrosive and may damage your skin. A few rags to prevent spilling brake fluid on the plastic or paint on your bike, as this will create permanent damage.The quality should be listed on the brake fluid reservoir lid or in your manual. Brake-fluid according to manufacturer specs.A screwdriver or hex wrench to open the brake fluid reservoir lid.To perform this job, you need almost no tools. With this procedure, you bleed the master cylinder when it is still attached to the ATV. Bleed the ATV master cylinder, step-by-step In this post, we will have a look at 6 alternative ways of doing this procedure. The same applies if you bleed your brakes and accidentally let the brake fluid reservoir run dry, allowing huge amounts of air to enter the system. After rebuilding or replacing the master cylinder on your ATV, you will need to bleed it separately to get all of the air out.
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